Inheriting the House
Mai Watanabe, a 34 years old Japanese woman, is part of the legend that is a traditional family geigi (geisha in the North of Japan) house. At the age of 18, she decided to follow in the footsteps of her mother and grandmother and become part of this celebrated but often misunderstood way of life Yet with rural Japan slowly losing its population, and not having any children of her own, there is the very real possibility that she will be the last of her family to carry on the knowledge of being a geigi. Despite this, Mai fights every day to keep the traditions she holds dear alive.
The first time I met Mai, it was during a typically humid Japanese August. She had invited me to a matsuri (Shinto folk festival) in Higashiyama-onsen, which was the perfect opportunity to meet and get to know about her job and her life in this rural area of Japan. Since then, we have met many times and talked a lot about her living conditions, her work as a geigi and the female family heritage in which she has been immersed since her childhood. Mai agreed to let me document not only her professional life but also her private life, and I have been doing this since 2020.
When the word geisha is said one often thinks of Kyoto but beyond that ancient capital, the culture of hanamachi still exists despite the exodus of the population from rural areas of Japan. One could say that Mai doesn’t have a profession as such; more a vocation through which she lives her life like a young Japanese woman trying to be worthy of her mother's teachings and proudly represent the name of the Okiya Hana no Ya founded by her grandmother in the last century. "Inheriting the House" shows how Mai maintains her family's legacy and tries to keep the traditions of the geigi alive in Higashiyama- Onsen in Aizuwakamatsu.
Mai holding a frame of her grandma, Ponko-chan poses for a family picture with her mom Michiyo. April, 2022. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Michiyo helps Mai to dress in her "new year kimono" inside the dressing room in Hana no Ya. January, 2022. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai practices a dance as her mom plays shamisen one evening inside Hana no Ya. June, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai practices shamisen with her mom inside Hana no Ya. June, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai jokes with her mom, as they wait in a room before starting a performance in a hotel in Higashiyama Onsen. March, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai (L) waits with Onesans (older geishas) outside the banquet hall of a hotel before starting a shift. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai plays practices golf on a day off at Aizubandai Country Club. October 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dances for friends in a bar. July, 2022. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai (L) and her mom Michiyo (R) attend a memorial lunch for the grandma who passed away one year before. October, 2022. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai holds her hanameishi (geisha business card). October, 2020 Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Tsurugajo (Aizuwakamatsu castle) during a snowstorm. December, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai arrives at Mangerô, a hold restaurant in central Aizuwakamatsu. January, 2022 Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
A street light, with Hana no Ya written on it, in front of the Okiya on the new year's eve. December, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dresses with a family kimono before to go to work. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dresses with a family kimono before to go to work. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dresses with a family kimono before to go to work. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dresses with a family kimono before to go to work. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Tatami room inside Okiya Ikeda. Ikeda is the Okiya where Mai's grandma, Ponko-chan received her geisha education. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai uses bathroom mirrors to paint her neck in white. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai adjusts her make-up at the entrance of Hana no Ya before leaving. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dances for customers inside the restaurant Mangerô. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai dances during a lunch event inside the restaurant Mangerô, November 2021.Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai attends an "online" zashiki (assignment for geisha) in the restaurant Mangerô during the Covid19 pandemic. June, 2021. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai looks at her phone inside a taxi after a night at work. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai practices Sagi Musume, a classic piece of Nihon Buyô (japanese classic dance). September, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai stretches her leg before practicing Sagi Musume, a classic piece of Nihon Buyô (japanese classic dance). September, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
A make-up artist paints Mai's neck as she is preparing to wear kimono to perform Sagi Musume during a Nishikawa event in Aizuwakamatsu. October 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.
Mai is on stage at Aizu Fugado performing Sagi Musume during a Nishikawa event. October, 2020. Mai Watanabe is the 3rd generation of Geisha from her family's geisha house called "Hana no Ya". Her grandmother founded the house in 1954 in Higashiyama Onsen.